In countless communities around the country, the once-popular rural general store has been supplanted by big-chain grocers and large department stores. But the town of Wilson, Wyoming has fought against the tide—and won. This tiny village at the base of Teton Pass, just 7 miles from well-known ski destination Jackson, Wyoming along State Highway 22, has breathed new life into its beloved general store, Hungry Jack’s. After hearing that the 70-year-old store was on the brink of closing—with plans for a purchase by a developer to turn the space into modern retail and housing—the town’s residents banded together and battled back. 

Spearheaded by a group of dedicated locals, a buying group was formed and 300 ownership shares were purchased to save Hungry Jack’s from closing. The group created a board of directors and management structure, and used its newfound capital to make major improvements to the space, bringing Hungry Jack’s into the modern era while maintaining its old-style feel. Following the deal, the store closed temporarily so its new owners could take stock and make enhancements—including the addition of a full liquor license and a commercial kitchen, as well as an expanded product assortment—resulting in a contemporary general store that has both the heart and financial backing of its townspeople.

“Hungry Jack’s started as a true Western general store that sold everything from wood stoves to fishing gear to canoes to food,” says Marc Hirschfield, chairman of the store’s board of directors. Hirschfield and his wife were among the initial residents who invested to save the property and form its buyout group. “It’s now more of a grocery store, with great merchandise, wine, liquor, and beer,” Hirschfield explains. “The space was feeling its age. The new Hungry Jack’s has an extensive remodel, with a commercial kitchen and upgrades to infrastructure and equipment. We want to be a one-stop shop for everyone’s needs, as well as a place to get a special bottle of wine or spirits for any occasion.”

Founding member Doug Doyle agrees. He says the community’s initial goal was to save the venerable store and following that, it’s group of dedicated owners wanted to modernize the concept so it could thrive going forward. “We thought, ‘what does the store need to survive?’ and a liquor license was high on the list,” Doyle says. “We decided to bring in a broader selection of foods and general merchandise while keeping some staples, and add wine and spirits. Our goal was to get it profitable and self-sustaining.”

The revamped Hungry Jack’s General Store reopened last September, and so far it has been exceeding those expectations. Doyle says sales are outpacing what they were prior to the community buyout, and Hirschfield adds that he expects total revenue at the single-unit store to be well over $2 million this year. The newly expanded beverage alcohol department makes up nearly 30% of total sales, and the owners hope it keeps growing. “Hungry Jack’s is an iconic feature in this town,” Doyle says. “It’s the cornerstone of Wilson.”

Community Ownership

Hungry Jack’s General Store started as a small grocer in 1954. Owners Clarence “Stearnie” Stearns and his wife, Dorothy “Dodie” Stearns, expanded the concept in 1960, turning it into a true general store that sold food items along with other daily necessities. Stearnie and Dodie sold the business to their daughter Jana in the late 1980s, and she ran the store until 2022, when she readied for retirement. Upon hearing that Hungry Jack’s, which had become a fixture in Wilson, Wyoming, was on the brink of demise, the town’s residents took action. 

“When Hungry Jack’s first opened, there wasn’t an Albertsons or Whole Foods nearby, but even as those stores came onto the scene, people understood the value of a small independent store that provides staples,” Hirschfield says. “Hungry Jack’s was worth saving because once these things are gone, they’re gone forever. What makes a community a community? A grocery and general store, a restaurant and bar, a post office, hardware store, and gas station. Somehow, Wilson has managed to keep all these things going.”

Wilson is truly a unique town. It’s a very affluent community—among the wealthiest zip codes in the United States—but it has a tiny population of just 1,300 residents. Hirschfield says that local residents are the primary shoppers at Hungry Jack’s, and they’re also the primary members of the store’s community ownership group. When they heard the business was likely being sold, the Doyles and Hirschfields—who are neighbors—began working together to save it. Doyle’s wife, Biz, is a real estate developer and Hirschfield’s wife, Anise Morrow, researched the legalities of community ownership. Hirschfield and Biz are on the board of directors, while Anise leads design and Doyle spearheaded the movement to get a full liquor license for Hungry Jack’s and also served as interim general manager. 

To fund the purchase, the group sold 320 shares at $25,000 apiece. Some shares were bought by individuals, some by families, and some by groups of people who worked together on the purchase. In all, there are roughly 600 people listed as shareholders for the business. The shareholders are obviously invested financially, and they are often shoppers in the store and therefore committed to helping it succeed. “It was crazy when word got out [about the shares for sale],” Doyle says. “People were calling saying ‘I have to own a share.’ There’s a crew of really dedicated people who wanted to save it and believed in this community.”

Hirschfield explains that the community ownership model has boosted business. He notes the built-in customer base, of course, but also points to the varied talents accessible by having so many vested owners. “We have amazingly talented people amongst our owners, who have provided various goods or connections to the great items we carry,” he says. “The team that helps guide the store via the active board brings many talents to the fore, specializing in retail, food, finance, wine, and other expertise.”

The work immediately paid off. “On opening weekend a person came up to me and thanked me for helping to save Hungry Jack’s,” Hirschfield recalls. “He later went on to tell me that he had hoped to buy the property for a big condo redevelopment, and he was glad he didn’t end up being a pariah in the community.”

Critical Component

The original Hungry Jack’s store had a permit to sell only malt beverages. Hirschfield and Doyle knew from the start that they wanted to expand and offer all beverage alcohol, and they secured a full liquor license last year. Doyle has experience in the beverage industry, having co-owned Teton Village Bottle Shop at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort for 15 years. He has a passion for Old World wines and says that segment plays well with the savvy and wealthy customer base in Wilson, Wyoming. In less than a year, wine has grown to become the No. 2 category at Hungry Jack’s behind the grocery department, and Doyle estimates that wine makes up about 15% of total store sales, with spirits and beer each comprising roughly 7% overall.

“When we set out on this project we knew a liquor license would be foundational to our long-term success,” Hirschfield says. “We have enough room to offer a very good selection of wine and spirits at many price levels and we work with some great distributors.” 

Wines in the $18-$30 a 750-ml. price segment do best at Hungry Jack’s and the owners note that organic labels attract a lot of attention from local shoppers. Some of the store’s top labels include California’s Bonterra, Bordeaux’s Les Hauts de Lagarde and Château Leroy-Beauval, and Spain’s PradoRey. 

In spirits, local products excel and the store offers Wyoming Whiskey and Jackson Hole Still Works labels (from roughly $35-$100 a 750-ml.). Beyond that, juggernaut Tito’s vodka ($25) has a strong presence and Doyle says that interest remains steady in upscale Tequila and small batch Bourbon. Beer does best from one of the many cooler doors in Hungry Jack’s. The store houses eight cold boxes, which display everything from locally made labels by Snake River Brewing, Melvin Brewing, and Grand Teton Brewing to large brands by Budweiser and Modelo (beers are $8-$14 for 4- and 6-packs, which are the top packaging for craft beers). Non-alcohol label Athletic is also growing at Hungry Jack’s. 

“We saw beverage alcohol as a critical component to making the business profitable,” Doyle says. “We want the store to be a place where people can get higher-end wines, but we also have an enormous cooler space dedicated to beer. Wine sales have been fantastic. This community is really buying good wine, good quality Old World wines. Our average basket ring is significantly higher because of wine and spirits.” Hirschfield adds that the store plans to add a slushy machine this summer to provide frozen drinks, and he anticipates that being popular. 

The grocery and food segment at Hungry Jack’s is growing, too. The company seeks out local purveyors for many categories, from nearby ranchers who supply beef and chicken to custom mushroom growers and a supplier of unpasteurized milk. The revamped store also includes a new commercial kitchen, which allows for the sale of grab-and-go food items ($4-$13). The Hirschfields previously owned a café in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and they’ve brought several of their signature dishes over to Hungry Jack’s, including sandwiches, salads, and baked goods. The owners say they have no plans to make a true restaurant, but they hope to foster more interest in prepared foods and have created a large community table within the space, as well as an outdoor seating area where guests can enjoy their takeout food items with beer and wine on-site. 

Doyle says the gathering spaces have created a nice social atmosphere for the store. “I’d love to see every shopping basket full of food, a little bit of general merchandise, and a bottle of wine,” he adds. “That’s my goal. Along with local Wilson residents, year-round visitors, and second home owners, we’re next to Highway 22 and see a lot of work crews who live in Idaho commute back and forth, so we have a big commuter population we’re trying to tap into. The store is small, but it’s beautifully redone and has a great product mix.”

Hirschfield adds that the charming, old town feel of Wilson is among its biggest assets. “The commercial corridor here has managed to avoid the major redevelopment pitfalls of many communities,” Hirschfield says. “I’ve maintained that this is a preservation project above all else. Our hope is that Hungry Jack’s will last at least another 70 years.”