Mixologists Rediscover Gin’s Versatility

With hundreds of brands to choose from, there’s a gin cocktail to please every palate.

Gin's diverse flavor profiles create a wealth of possibilities for cocktails. The Origamiami plays on the cucumber notes of Hendrick’s by adding sake and house-made cucumber bitters.
Gin's diverse flavor profiles create a wealth of possibilities for cocktails. The Origamiami plays on the cucumber notes of Hendrick’s by adding sake and house-made cucumber bitters.

To many mixologists, gin is the ideal cocktail base. While vodka’s character may get muddled or lost in a drink, and whisk(e)y can overpower other ingredients, gin shines in a plethora of tipples. “I always talk about gin as being the middle sibling between vodka and whisk(e)y,” says Jose Cordon, beverage director at Community Tavern in Chicago. “It has the clean body of vodka, but with much more flavor. And it can have the sweetness of whisk(e)y—especially in barrel-aged expressions and Old Tom gins—but it’s never overpowering. It’s so much smoother, and it plays really well with other ingredients.” Today’s cocktail menus feature a variety of gins, from London dry to genever, that offer a range of flavor profiles.

As consumers have warmed up to gin in recent years, they’ve learned more about the traditional pre-Prohibition cocktails that feature the spirit. “Our consumers are really intrigued by and enjoy classic gin cocktails that had been forgotten, but are now making a comeback,” says James Bolt, manager at The Gin Joint in Charleston, South Carolina. “They’re calling for time-honored drinks like the Southside, the Clover Club and the Bijou.” Bolt also features gin in modern concoctions, such as the Velvet Glove ($10). The drink comprises Ransom Old Tom gin, Vago Espadin mezcal, Green Chartreuse, Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao and Angostura bitters.

Classic recipes provide a base to which adventurous mixologists can add a personal flair. “Gin cocktails are evolving from tried-and-true offerings to inventive house spins on the classics,” says Andie Ferman, brand ambassador for St. George Spirits. The craft distillery makes three distinct New Western–style gins, as well as other spirits. At Barmini in Washington, D.C., the Aromatherapy ($12) is a twist on the Tom Collins created by head bartender Jose Rivera. It features St. George Terroir gin, Dolin Blanc vermouth, lemon juice, simple syrup, Scrappy’s Lavender bitters and soda water.

The Death Grip is wildly complex, blending gin, apricot and wormwood liqueurs, bitter aperitif, ginger, honey, lemon, gooseberries and bitters.
The Death Grip is wildly complex, blending gin, apricot and wormwood liqueurs, bitter aperitif, ginger, honey, lemon, gooseberries and bitters. (Photo by Andrew Cebulka)

Mixologists are particularly drawn to gin for its mixability and versatility. “I like everything about working with gin in cocktails,” says Matt Amann, beverage manager at Chicago restaurant Ceres’ Table. “There’s an amazing versatility of gin styles that can complement a refreshing cooler or a rich and dense spirit-forward drink—and everything in between. I enjoy a spirit that stands up for itself and isn’t afraid to be aggressive in its qualities.” His Vandalo ($10) blends Distillerie de Biercée Peket dè Houyeu genever with Cynar amaro, house-made honey syrup and Regans’ No. 6 Orange bitters.

“Gin is a dynamic spirit category,” St. George’s Ferman says. “It’s constantly challenging imaginative bartenders to create cocktails that allow for a symphony of flavors, spices, herbs and botanicals to fill a vessel with song—not just a single note.”

Gin-Based Cocktail Recipes

Aromatherapy

By Jose Rivera
(Photo by Rey Lopez)
Ingredients

1½ ounces St. George Terroir gin;

¾ ounce Dolin Blanc vermouth;

¾ ounce fresh lemon juice;

¾ ounce simple syrup;

1 dash Scrappy’s Lavender bitters;

1 ounce soda water;

Lavender flower.

Recipe

Combine gin, vermouth, juice, syrup and bitters in an ice-filled cocktail shaker and shake vigorously. Fine-strain into an ice-filled Collins glass and top with soda water. Garnish with a fresh lavender flower.

Velvet Glove

By James Bolt
(Photo by Callie Cranford)
Ingredients

1 ounce Ransom Old Tom gin;

1 ounce Vago Espadin mezcal;

¾ ounce Green Chartreuse liqueur;

¾ ounce Dolin Blanc vermouth;

½ ounce Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao;

2 dashes Angostura bitters;

Lemon peel;

Cucumber ribbon.

Recipe

Combine gin, mezcal, Chartreuse, vermouth, Curaçao and bitters in an ice-filled mixing glass. Add ice and stir until slightly diluted. Strain into a chilled Nick and Nora glass, express a lemon peel over the drink and discard peel. Garnish with a cucumber ribbon.

Vandalo

By Matt Amann
(Photo by Matt Amann)
Ingredients

1¾ ounces Distillerie de Biercée Peket dè Houyeu genever;

¾ ounce Cynar amaro;

½ ounce honey syrup1;

3 dashes Regans’ No. 6 Orange bitters;

Lemon peel.

Recipe

Combine genever, amaro, syrup and bitters in an ice-filled mixing glass and stir until properly chilled. Strain into a cocktail glass. Express the oil of a lemon peel over the drink and use peel as garnish.

1Mix equal parts honey and water by volume.