Over the past decade, mezcal has emerged from Tequila’s shadow. While it’s still far from rivaling Tequila in size, mezcal has carved a compelling space of its own—one that’s been defined by consistent growth and innovation. That’s why it was surprising when the category’s long-running growth trend came to a halt last year, with exports to the U.S. tumbling nearly 10% to 803,000 cases, according to Impact Databank.

But the growing pains weren’t felt by everyone—in fact, some producers more than doubled their volume—and given that mezcal was at just 397,000 cases in 2020 (and a mere 84,000 cases a decade ago), a promising future remains. “I have an incredibly optimistic outlook,” says Éva Pelczer, director of brand education at Del Maguey, which dipped 1.7% last year to 95,000 cases. “Mezcal invites a rich cultural investment, as it reflects the multitude of indigenous traditions, languages, and communities all over Mexico, and long-term, we know consumers and the trade will reach for it for those reasons.”

A Wide World Of Agave

Del Maguey—which launched in 2010 and was acquired by Pernod Ricard in 2017—has long reigned as the largest mezcal brand in the U.S. While the brand slipped slightly in 2023, it’s experienced steady growth in recent years, up by 14.3% annually in the five years since 2018, when it sat at just 49,000 cases. Del Maguey initially entered the U.S. with just one expression, Vida ($40 a 750-ml.), made from Espadín agave. The brand’s core portfolio has since been rebranded Vida Clásico and expanded to encompass around 20 mezcals, and according to Pelczer, there are even more if you count the occasional limited edition batch. 

Del Maguey’s wide array of bottlings span from entry level to luxury, representing the true breadth of mezcal. While Espadín is undoubtedly mezcal’s workhorse, accounting for 80-90% of all mezcal production, , the spirit can be made from around 40 unique agave species that grow throughout ten Mexican states. This is a substantial break from Tequila, which can only be made from Blue Weber agave, and whose production is limited to five Mexican states. “Mezcal is not one thing; it’s many different things based on those making it and where they are,” says Pelczer. “Our portfolio is set up to be a roadmap, where you start at the Vida Collection, then move into tasting Espadín at traditional abvs [which are higher], and ultimately end with trying wild varietals like Papalome or Chichicapa. It can take months or years to go on that journey, but Del Maguey is set up to tell the story of mezcal through all of its bottles.” The Del Maguey portfolio ranges from $38-$216 a 750-ml.

Operating on a smaller level is El Buho, a brand that debuted in the U.S. in 2012 and is similar to Del Maguey in that has made a point of offering many expressions. Its core lineup is comprised of 12 mezcals, among them Espadín, Jabali, Tepeztate, and Mexicano (made from maguey Mexicano agave). In addition to these expressions, there are also a handful of releases that haven’t yet made it to the U.S. In total, El Buho makes mezcal from eight different agave species; every bottle is produced by the Jimenez-Mendez family, which has been making mezcal since the late 1800s. 

A crowded portfolio can present a challenge to consumers, especially those newer to mezcal, but according to El Buho co-founder Redford Parker, it can also better set consumers up to understand mezcal’s hierarchy, and differences among agave species. “Learning how bottles are labeled is key to identifying the unique characteristics of each different agave species, and what drives the spirit’s flavor profile and price,” he explains. “For instance, Espadín takes around ten years to produce, is dense with sugar content, produces a lot of offspring, is resilient to diseases, and easy to cultivate; this leads to efficient distillation and cheaper prices. In comparison, Tepeztate takes at least twice as long to mature, is difficult to cultivate, produces a few offspring, and has a lot less sugar, which drives inefficient distillation and a much higher price, often three to four times higher than Espadín.” The El Buho portfolio ranges in price from $45 a 750-ml. for its Espadín to $195 for its Extra Añejo. 

Where There’s Smoke, There’s Imbalance

Despite the breadth of agave types that can be tapped for mezcal distillation, there’s a common misconception that they all create smoke bombs. While mezcal can certainly be smoky—making it requires cooking agave piñas, a process that traditionally involves placing them in ovens heated by wood and volcanic rock that lends roasted, fiery flavors to the final spirit—top mezcaleros find that smoke-saturated iterations are evidence of imbalance. “Mezcal should not be about smoke—this is a spirit made from a plant that takes in flavors from the soil for up to 20 years,” says Xaime Niembro, co-owner of the Gracias a Dios brand. “You’re sipping something that experienced years of sun, earth, wind, and rain…never smoke. There are primary flavors which come from the soil and secondary flavors that come from the distillation process; smoke is only one of them.” Gracias a Dios, which is imported by Palm Bay, currently offers two mezcals—Espadín and Espadín Reposado—in its core lineup, though limited releases have featured other agave species, including Blue Weber and Sierra Negra. While wisps of smoke are part of its flavor profile, the Espadín has elements of apple, pear, cinnamon, and citrus. 

At Campante Mezcal, co-founder Shirley Leigh-Wood Oakes says that yes, while smoke will appear in mezcal, it doesn’t have to be a smack in the face. “Someone once said to me, ‘I always felt that mezcal was basically just drinking a fire pit,’” she says. “But it doesn’t need to be that way—you’ll notice in our flavors that there are some wonderful herbal tones that come through, a bit of citrus, orange blossom; it’s heavier on the floral and herbal flavors, and not in a sweet way, but in a light, refreshing way.” She adds that starting new mezcal drinkers off with heavily smoked mezcals may be a surefire way to stop their journey into the category right then and there. “The ability to be able to play with the spirit, and have it as something that can be enjoyed neat, or on the rocks, or in a simple cocktail is key.” Campante, whose inaugural expression is made from Espadín and Barril, is currently available in a few states and online via the company’s DTC platform, with plans for wider distribution in the future. A new expression is set to debut next year, with Wood Oakes noting that it won’t be a specific agave varietal or a regional blend, but something entirely new to the category.

Launched in 2018 and imported to the U.S. starting in 2020, Ojo de Tigre also counts one mezcal in its permanent portfolio: a Joven that combines Espadín and Tobalá agaves. While there is smoke present, brand ambassador Nino Gandulla notes that it isn’t a word she’d use when describing her mezcal. “I like to use the word ‘earthy,’ as not all mezcals are smoky, and even when they are, there are different types of smoke,” she explains. “For example, Ojo de Tigre has subtly earthy notes that can come off as low smoke, followed by notes of citrus peel, eucalyptus, mild chocolate, and cooked agave.” Ojo de Tigre retails for $42 a 750-ml.

Cocktails Remain Key

To dispel the notion that mezcal is overwhelmingly smoky, Gandulla enjoys introducing consumers to the spirit via classic cocktails that feature fresh twists. “Some of our favorites are the Mezcal Mule and Ranch Water [which blends mezcal, fresh lime juice, and sparkling water]; these serves all allow the subtle earthy and fruit notes to stand out, with just a dash of smoke,” she says.

Cocktails have indeed proven integral to mezcal’s rise, and many brands have relied heavily on the on-premise to build their base. “There is a need for ongoing education to raise awareness about mezcal’s unique production methods, cultural significance, and diverse flavor profiles, and this is one of the reasons we continue to provide bartenders an opportunity to learn about Montelobos, and mezcal in general,” says Melanie Batchelor, managing director of Campari America, which markets Montelobos. “Bartenders have been experimenting with mezcal for some time, and consumers appreciate the added

depth and complexity that mezcal’s smoky flavors bring to classic cocktails.” Montelobos, present in the U.S. with four expressions—Espadín, Tobalá, Ensamble, and Pechuga ($42-$110 a 750-ml.)—is currently the sixth-largest mezcal brand in the U.S. It’s among the few labels that grew by double digits in 2023, up 10% to 22,000 cases, according to Impact Databank, and Batchelor attributes part of that growth to the bartender community.

Another top brand that’s long emphasized an on-premise focus is Ilegal, which is the No.-2 mezcal brand by volume in the U.S. at 84,000 cases. “Ilegal wouldn’t be what it is today without bartender love and support and the movement toward cocktail culture,” says president and COO Mauricio Vergara Herrera. “This continues to be a priority for the brand and we pride ourselves on supporting and working hand-in-hand with the trade.” The brand offers three 100% Espadín mezcals: Joven ($46 a 750-ml.); Reposado ($58), aged for 6 months; and Añejo ($98), aged for 13 months, as well limited release, ultra-aged mezcals. While he recommends trying the mezcals neat, their robust flavor in cocktails makes them an easy add to any menu. “Mezcal truly makes any classic cocktail more interesting, thanks to the hint of smoke and agave flavors that make this spirit so special,” he says, pointing to classic cocktails like the Negroni, Old Fashioned, or Margarita as ideal for swapping in mezcal.

While mezcal faced an off-year in 2023, there’s reason to believe the category will return to growth. Many producers point to the spirit’s rich cultural heritage as its ultimate beacon, as consumers—and the trade—look for brands that they can connect with on a deeper level. “The good news is that consumer interest and demand has grown beyond expectations, with consumers interested in not only the spirit, but its history and culture,” says Niembre of Gracias a Dios. As for the downside, he’s seen a decrease in the overall quality of mezcal—which may speak to some of the category’s overall declines.

Similarly, Del Maguey’s Pelczer praises mezcal’s culture, and spotlights it as the way forward. “Mezcal offers a true cultural exchange; once this category catches you, and you see this culture within, you don’t ever really leave it, and we’ve seen that,” she says. “There’s no flattening of the culture; it’s Mexico distilled, and both general consumers and bartenders have taken note, and that makes me believe in the long-term future of what we can do with the category.”