Picking Up Steam

American single malt is finding its place in cocktails.

At Hudson & Nash in San Diego, Justin Watlington uses American single malt to put a spin on traditional cocktails, as seen in his Manhattan (pictured).
At Hudson & Nash in San Diego, Justin Watlington uses American single malt to put a spin on traditional cocktails, as seen in his Manhattan (pictured).

Though the U.S. Treasury Department’s Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) has yet to render a decision on whether to recognize American single malt whiskey as a specific category with its own distinct designations, the category is growing rapidly. There are now more than 200 U.S. producers of the whiskey represented by the American Single Malt Whiskey Commission (ASMWC), the trade group that started in 2016 with just nine founding member distilleries. And big name producers are jumping on board too: Both Jack Daniel’s and Bulleit now tout American single malts, and James B. Beam Distilling Co. offers its own under the Clermont Steep label. 

“I think there are a few factors behind the growth of American single malts,” says Jacob Smith, bartender at La Taverne at The Broadmoor resort in Colorado Springs, Colorado. “The first is the formation of the ASMWC, which has established a platform of regulations and norms that American distilleries have been using to guide their single malt whiskey production. And then I think the more interesting reason is the need for distilleries, and specifically craft distilleries, to always be innovating and creating new products. Single malts were the obvious next step for American craft distilleries because they’re steeped in the ironclad traditions of Scottish single malts while leaving so much room open for innovation. The numerous different types of malt, from chocolate, pale, Munich, brown, and more, as well as the various aging and finishing options, allow distillers innovation to no end.” 

Emma Fujimori, bartender at Pied Piper at the Palace Hotel in San Francisco, speculates that American single malt is growing more popular because it’s “the cool kid on the whisk(e)y block” for today’s consumers, who are adventurous and drawn to products that tell an interesting story. “American single malt combines the traditional craft of whiskey-making with a fresh, innovative twist,” she says. “Plus, the rise of craft distilleries means there’s a ton of variety out there, and who doesn’t love exploring new flavors?” 

Steven Marshall, lead bartender at Dirty Habit in San Francisco, prefers to use the locally distilled St. George Spirits’ American single malt in his St. George’s Serenity (pictured), which blends the whiskey with Mandarine Napoléon liqueur and house-made espresso syrup.
Steven Marshall, lead bartender at Dirty Habit in San Francisco, prefers to use the locally distilled St. George Spirits’ American single malt in his St. George’s Serenity (pictured), which blends the whiskey with Mandarine Napoléon liqueur and house-made espresso syrup.

New Adventure

Per the ASMWC’s guidelines, American single malt whiskey must be made from 100% malted barley; mashed, distilled, and matured in one distillery; produced entirely in the U.S.; distilled to a proof not exceeding 160; matured in oak casks not exceeding 700 liters; and bottled at a minimum of 40% abv. Outside of these parameters is plenty of room for experimentation that piques many bartenders’ interests. “Something I find really interesting and exciting about American single malts is that many of them are aged in new charred oak barrels, a very American practice, whereas traditional Scottish single malts are usually aged in ex-Bourbon or ex-Sherry casks,” Smith notes. “These new barrels impart notes of vanilla, tobacco, and caramel, which, in concert with the dark chocolate and nutty notes that various malts can bring, make for some delicious and unique whiskeys.” 

Will Wyatt, bartender at Mister Paradise New York City, also notes the uniqueness of American single malts aged in new oak. “It allows the rich malted barley characteristics to be balanced with much brighter spice notes and a touch of tannin,” he says. “This lets the whiskey cut through more in cocktails, especially in the Old Fashioned realm, that may otherwise lose the rich caramel and vanilla of many Scottish single malts beneath more aggressive flavors.”

At Pied Piper, Fujimori’s Old Fashioned ($22) features Stranahan’s Original American single malt, house-made rosemary and thyme syrup, plus Angostura and Fee Brothers Orange bitters. “I enjoy creating both timeless classics and modern twists with American single malt, like our Old Fashioned with rosemary and thyme,” Fujimori says. “The key is to let the whiskey shine, using ingredients that enhance its natural character without overshadowing it, like aromatic bitters, a hint of citrus, and fresh herbs.” Fujimori adds that since any type of malt and any type of barrel aging are permissible when making American single malt, they can vary greatly in flavor, which makes them fun for bartenders to create drinks around. “American single malt is like a playground for bartenders because each one has a distinct personality, from fruity and floral to rich and smoky,” she says. “It’s exciting because you get to experiment and create something truly unique every time. Unlike some other whiskies, American single malts often reflect their local terroir and the innovative spirit of their distillers, which makes each bottle a new adventure.” 

Maxime Daniel, a bartender at Velveteen Rabbit in Las Vegas, points out that American single malt’s newness is what makes it so intriguing. “We’re still in unknown territory, and that’s what’s exciting,” he says. “American single malt allows for the freedom to create entirely new flavor profiles. Those inventive techniques open up new and almost unlimited possibilities for both whiskey producers and cocktail makers.” His Off-White Boulevardier ($19) comprises equal parts Westland American single malt and Nonino amaro, plus Lillet Blanc aperitif, Dolin Dry vermouth, and saline. Kaitlyn Kelly, another bartender at Velveteen Rabbit, enjoys working with American single malts because of the varying complexities of every expression. “All distilleries have their own particular climate and barrel, lending to each unique brand,” she says. “Some American single malts are pushing boundaries by using ex-craft beer barrels to create complex and bright flavors, whereas others are using their climate—such as the hot, southern sun or the cold, rainy weather of the Pacific Northwest—to create new flavors. It’s an exciting category of whiskey to watch, as it’s ever-growing.” Kelly adds that she typically looks to citrus and spice components when mixing with American single malt. “That being said, a simple, spirit-forward cocktail always highlights the complexity and richness from the whiskey’s barley,” she notes.

At Hudson & Nash at the Hilton San Diego Bayfront, general manager Justin Watlington’s American Single Malt Manhattan ($20) blends Hudson single malt, Martini & Rossi sweet vermouth, and Angostura bitters, while his American Single Malt Mule ($18) mixes Hudson single malt, fresh lime juice, and Fever-Tree ginger beer. “We lean into tradition with our cocktails at Hudson & Nash, and Old Fashioneds and Manhattans are great for single malt because bitters do a good job of enhancing the whiskey’s depth, and then our Mule lets the whiskey shine by offering it with the refreshing flavors of ginger beer and lime,” Watlington says. “I love Hudson single malt—I’ve found that it’s easy to work with, provides an incredible aroma and flavor profile, and can stand on its own or shine in a cocktail.”

At Mister Paradise in New York City, bartender Will Wyatt gravitates towards Westland American single malt when mixing drinks like the Carrot Cake Punch (pictured), a milk-washed and cream cheese-infused cocktail featuring brown butter-washed Westland American single malt.
At Mister Paradise in New York City, bartender Will Wyatt gravitates towards Westland American single malt when mixing drinks like the Carrot Cake Punch (pictured), a milk-washed and cream cheese-infused cocktail featuring brown butter-washed Westland American single malt.

Brand Loyal

Now that there are hundreds of American single malt producers around the country, it’s become easy for bartenders to pick favorites. “Being from Colorado, I always love finding high-quality local spirits and Deerhammer Distillery in Buena Vista, Colorado makes an American single malt that I really enjoy mixing with,” La Taverne’s Smith says. “It makes a great replacement for Bourbon in the classic Revolver cocktail where the coffee liqueur and orange bitters are complemented beautifully by chocolate and coffee in the whiskey. It also works well in my version of the classic Blood and Sand, called the Blood and Stone, where the flavor pairing of orange juice and chocolate from the whiskey shines through.” His take on the Revolver ($23) comprises Deerhammer, Kahlúa coffee liqueur, and Fee Brothers Orange bitters, while his Blood and Stone ($23) features Deerhammer, Luxardo Maraschino liqueur, Lillet Blanc, and acid-adjusted and clarified orange juice.

Also a Colorado single malt, Stranahan’s is a recent favorite of Camille Ko, a bartender at The Center Club in Baltimore and a counselor at Camp Runamuck, a summer camp for bartenders. “Stranahan’s is the first legal distillery in Colorado since Prohibition and a pioneer in educating people about the American single malt category,” she says. “Their whiskeys offer a nuance and depth of flavor that stands up better to cocktailing compared to other single malts of a similar age statement.” Her Rocky Mountain High ($14) mixes Stranahan’s Blue Peak Solera Finished single malt and peach-infused Cocchi Di Torino sweet vermouth, plus a touch of Braulio amaro.

Steven Marshall, lead bartender at Dirty Habit, the rooftop bar of the Zelos Hotel in San Francisco, favors St. George Spirits’ single malt whiskey. “I may have a little bit of a local bias, but it’s just an amazing whiskey that works well with so many different cocktail types,” he says. His St. George’s Serenity ($21) features the expression with Mandarine Napoléon liqueur and house-made espresso syrup. St. George’s Japanese whisky-inspired Baller single malt is the go-to for Pied Piper’s Fujimori. “It’s robust, balanced, and just plain delicious; it’s got these subtle smoky notes that add depth to any cocktail without overwhelming it,” she says. “Plus, St. George Spirits has a fantastic reputation for quality and innovation, which means their whiskey always brings something special to the glass.” Her Highball ($17) is a simple and classic blend of Baller and soda water plus a lemon twist.

“There are a few brands I’ve been gravitating toward lately, namely Westland American single malt,” Velveteen Rabbit’s Kelly notes. “This Seattle distillery is a trailblazer in the American single malt community and already has several accolades. They’re a force of sustainability and embracing tradition in a futuristic way, and their care in distilling really shines through in the boldness and flavor of their whiskey. Each expression has its own complexity that shines and stands up in both spirit-forward and bright, citrusy cocktails alike. It’s definitely a brand to watch as they continue to grow and blaze a new path for American single malts.” Her Single Malt Maple Penicillin ($19) comprises Westland’s flagship American single malt, maple syrup, lemon juice, and house-made ginger syrup, while Daniel’s Rusty Bee Sting ($19) mixes the flagship with Drambuie Scotch whisky liqueur, house-made ginger syrup, and lemon juice.

Mister Paradise’s Wyatt says that Westland was the first American single malt he ever tried and remains the only one he stocks at his bar. “It’s a whiskey that sits in that perfect middle ground of being a good sipping whiskey and being good juice to work around in a cocktail,” he says. “I know there are some other great options out there, but Westland just ticks the boxes I’m looking for in my bar program.” His Carrot Cake Punch ($16) is a unique milk-washed and cream cheese-infused cocktail featuring brown butter-washed Westland American single malt, Lustau Pedro Ximenez San Emilio Sherry, house-made coconut syrup, and fresh carrot and lemon juices.

At Bar Zoe in San Francisco’s Hotel Zoe, the Citrus Waves and His Dark Knight cocktails (both pictured) mix 10th Street Distillery Distiller’s Cut single malt whiskey with fruity ingredients to make a brighter, more fruit-forward drink.
At Bar Zoe in San Francisco’s Hotel Zoe, the Citrus Waves and His Dark Knight cocktails (both pictured) mix 10th Street Distillery Distiller’s Cut single malt whiskey with fruity ingredients to make a brighter, more fruit-forward drink.

Only Up From Here

Wyatt adds that American single malt is primed to gain more fans, especially drinkers of more traditional single malts looking to branch out. “Single malts were long synonymous with Scotland, then as Japanese whisky began appearing more in the U.S., the idea of a single malt began shifting and many whisk(e)y drinkers started gravitating toward Japanese single malts, driving the price up drastically as demand overtook supply,” he says. “I think the newness of American single malt, both in terms of flavor and marketability, along with its relative affordability, has many of those whisk(e)y drinkers who are looking for the next thing diverting their focus to the States. I’m beginning to see these whiskeys as standard placement on most backbars around New York, and as time passes and higher age statements begin entering the conversation, I expect to see American single malts becoming a focus for collectors and connoisseurs who’ve had their fill of old world single malts.”

Dirty Habit’s Marshall has similarly seen enthusiasts from other whisk(e)y categories become increasingly drawn to American single malts lately. “I think this is due to rising prices in Bourbon and Scotch, plus people realizing that American single malt whiskey has the breadth of range that Bourbons, Scotches, and ryes have, and then some,” he says. His Last Flight from Denver ($19) blends equal parts Stranahan’s Original, Cardamaro amaro, Giffard Abricot du Roussillon apricot liqueur, and lemon juice. “So many different American single malts are hitting the market—we might see the widespread mass market appeal of these whiskeys spike the same way we’ve seen Bourbon and Scotch grow over the last five years,” he adds. 

The Center Club’s Ko is also hopeful for the future of the category. “I think the next big step for American single malt will be increased exports and global recognition,” she says. “The ASMWC’s certification of a single standard will make even more distillers join the game to diversify the category.” Her Diamonds in the Bay ($14) is a take on the classic Diamondback, comprising Old Line Moscatel Cask American single malt, date-infused Laird’s Blended Applejack, and Yellow Chartreuse liqueur.

With American single malt growing rapidly, Velveteen Rabbit’s Daniel believes cocktails made with the spirit will only become more common. “For now, because of its novelty, American single malt is mainly showcased in classic and pre-Prohibition cocktails, as they offer little risk and perfect balance; however, thanks to flourishing, creative minds, new regulations will inevitably be implemented and we’ll see more unique distillers thrive, which will lead to more craft cocktails with American single malt as the star of the show,” he says. “We already see big names making their own mash—it’s only a matter of time before we see more of them on shelves and in our drinks.”

Kenneth Barrantes, bartender at Bar Zoe at Hotel Zoe in San Francisco, agrees that American single malt-based cocktails are poised to grow, adding that they will likely become more creative as well. “Bartenders and mixologists are increasingly experimenting with American single malts in cocktail recipes to create unique and innovative drinks,” he says. “As this is not a ‘traditional’ choice for cocktails, the uniqueness of this trend will likely stay relevant and continue to grow.” His Dark Knight ($18) mixes 10th Street Distillery Distiller’s Cut single malt whiskey, mango purée, brown sugar simple syrup, and Angostura Aromatic and Orange bitters, while his Citrus Waves ($18) features 10th Street Distillery Distiller’s Cut, pineapple juice, house-made ginger syrup, brown sugar simple syrup, and lemon juice.

Pied Piper’s Fujimori also believes that American single malt cocktails will grow more experimental over the next several years. “Bartenders are going to push the envelope with unconventional pairings and innovative techniques, like barrel-aging cocktails or using exotic spices,” she says. “There’s also a big movement toward sustainability and local sourcing, which fits perfectly with the ethos of many American single malt producers. As more people look for unique and authentic drinking experiences, American single malt will be front and center in the cocktail scene.” 

American Single Malt Whiskey-Based Cocktails

Off-White Boulevardier

By Maxime Daniel
Ingredients

1 ounce Westland American single malt whiskey;

1 ounce Nonino amaro;

½ ounce Lillet Blanc aperitif;

½ ounce Dolin Dry vermouth;

2 drops saline solution (20%);

2 grapefruit peels.

Recipe

In an ice-filled mixing glass, combine whiskey, amaro, aperitif, vermouth, and saline. Add a grapefruit peel and stir. Strain into an ice-filled Old Fashioned glass and garnish with a fresh grapefruit peel. 

Revolver

By Jacob Smith
Ingredients

2 ounces Deerhammer American single malt whiskey;

1 ounce Kahlúa Coffee liqueur;

3-4 dashes Fee Brothers Orange bitters;

Orange peel.

Recipe

In an ice-filled mixing glass, combine whiskey, liqueur, and bitters. Stir until chilled and strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with an orange peel. 

Diamonds In The Bay

By Camille Ko
Ingredients

1½ ounces Old Line Moscatel Cask American single malt whiskey;

¾ ounce date-infused Laird’s Blended 

Applejack¹;

½ ounce Yellow Chartreuse liqueur;

Cherry.

Recipe

In an ice-filled mixing glass, combine whiskey, Applejack, and liqueur. Stir for 30 seconds and strain into a coup glass. Skewer a cherry and rest it on the glass as garnish.

¹Put 15 grams dried dates into a large container and pour 750-ml. Applejack over top. Allow to cold infuse for one to two days, then strain. (For more rapid infusion, you can sous vide the mixture for 12 hours at 130ºF.)