Rum has been a bit slower than other spirits to catch on in a major way with U.S. drinkers, which Tim Stevens, beverage director at The Floridian in St. Augustine, Florida, attributes to a lack of real understanding of the spirit. “There’s still a heavy stigma that all rum is horrible hangover juice or all rums are sweet or spiced,” he says. “It’s sometimes a task to reintroduce rum to every guest, but I encourage anyone I work with to explain and dive deeper into spirits like rum that the public is less knowledgeable about.”
Daniel Grajewski, beverage director for José Andrés Group, which has restaurant concepts across the country, notes that rum is popular with many of his guests. “However, the popularity and level of interest or knowledge about rum can vary widely depending on who the guest is,” he says. “I believe the popularity behind it is usually based in someone knowing the history of rum and that it runs as deep, if not deeper, than whisk(e)y, and can offer a lot of the same experience as whisk(e)y with a far lower price tag attached.”
At Dalida in San Francisco, bar director Evan Williams notes that rum still trails other spirits in guests’ minds. “People are more comfortable with whisk(e)y, gin, and vodka,” he says. “There’s so much to learn about rum, and from a guest’s perspective it can be harder to find their particular rum of choice—perhaps someone had one bad time with a Jamaican rum, so in their minds that bad experience with one style of rum is now tied to all rum. It’s our job as bartenders—and rum lovers—to change that perspective, and to help guests discover how beautiful rum can be.” Thanks to passionate mixologists like Williams spreading the good word about rum and using it in more creative ways in recent years, there’s lots of room for rum to grow behind the bar and earn more fans.
Tropical Still Top Of Mind
Though many consumers may still be in the discovery phase with rum, it’s widely known that rum goes well with tropical flavors and ingredients, given its historical ties to tropical regions as well as tiki culture. “Rum has a rich history, particularly in places like the Caribbean and Latin America, and I like to draw inspiration from this heritage, incorporating traditional ingredients, techniques, and folklore into cocktail creations, adding depth and authenticity to the drinking experience,” José Andrés Group’s Grajewski notes. His Rum + Coconut ($19) at the Signature Club & Lounge at Capital One Arena in Washington, D.C. blends Bacardi 8-year-old rum, Supasawa Seriously Sour cocktail mixer, coconut purée, simple syrup, and Topo Chico mineral water. “The resurgence of interest in tiki cocktails, which prominently feature rum as a base spirit, in recent years has allowed bartenders to rediscover classic tiki recipes and put modern twists on them,” Grajewski adds. “And with the globalization of the spirits industry through product availability, bartenders have access to a wider variety of rums and the stories behind them. This has led to cross-cultural influences in cocktail creation, with bartenders drawing inspiration from Caribbean, Latin American, Asian, and other regional rum traditions.”
At Dalida, Williams’ take on the classic 1930s rum drink the Hotel Nacional ($20) features Ron Zacapa 23 rum, Giffard Abricot du Roussillon apricot liqueur, lime juice, house-made caramelized pineapple lactic syrup, Bittercube Trinity bitters, Fee Brothers Fee Foam, and fresh mint. At The Independent at the George Hotel in Georgetown, South Carolina, the Swamp Fox ($13) is a take on the Piña Colada, mixing Hilton Head Platinum rum, pineapple and lemon juices, house-made ginger syrup, and Coco Lopez cream of coconut. “You can’t go wrong with tropical and fruity when it comes to rum,” says Nolan Kennedy, creator of the drink and lead mixologist at Indigo Road Hospitality Group, which operates The Independent. “Arguably most identifiable in the U.S. through the 1930s birth of tiki culture, the association with rum often means a good time in the sunshine with fresh fruit and clean herbs. Tropical cocktails, fresh Mojitos, and clean Daiquiris have all played their part in the cocktail scene.”
Greg Thompson, bar manager at Coltivare in Houston, believes that rum’s ties to tropical regions adds a layer of intrigue to the spirit. “It can instantly transport your taste buds to a sunny beach with just a sip, making it a perfect base for tiki cocktails or any drink aiming for those summery vibes,” he says. At Coltivare, head bartender Rebecca Johnson’s Bon Voyage ($14.50) is one such summery drink, comprising Planteray Original Dark and OFTD rums, lime juice, house-made pineapple syrup, and Fee Brothers Peach bitters. “Rum’s true magic lies in its incredible range,” Thompson adds. “From light and white rums with subtle sugarcane notes perfect for refreshing Highballs, to rich and aged varieties bursting with caramel and molasses flavors ideal for complex cocktails, rum offers a spectrum of possibilities. Unlike some spirits with a more singular flavor profile, rum can adapt to nearly any cocktail vision.”
Better Together
The Floridan’s Stevens loves that within the single category of rum there’s so much variance between styles and brands. “Every rum has a place, and they all work differently in cocktails, and they all complement each other,” he says. “I’m a big believer in blending rums based on your goal. No single rum can do it all, but with an expansive palate you can let each individual rum play its part.” His Doctor Tallyman ($13) features Doctor Bird rum, Planteray Stiggins Fancy Pineapple and OFTD rums, Campari aperitif, Carpano Antica Formula vermouth, Giffard Crème de Banane banana liqueur, simple syrup, saline solution, and Angostura bitters, while his Goliath’s Downfall ($13) is a frozen blend of Diplomático Planas and Havana Club Añejo Clásico rums; Bénédictine liqueur; Giffard Abricot du Roussillon liqueur; pineapple, orange, and lemon juices; and house-made guava syrup.
“It’s important to know your rum and know what plays well with each style,” says Dalida’s Williams. “Often what one single rum doesn’t accomplish, a blend of rums will.” His Saturnalia ($16) comprises El Dorado 3-year-old and Planteray OFTD rums, house-made yogurt liqueur and caramelized pineapple lactic syrup, and lime juice. “A lot of rum cocktails use a blend of rums—a mix of light, dark, and spiced varieties, to name a few,” notes Indigo Road Hospitality’s Kennedy. “Incorporating multiple rums in a single drink can add a lot of depth—it’s a great way to tweak the flavor to get it exactly where you want it.” His Navy Grog ($11) mix Don Q Silver, Hilton Head Spiced, and Myers’s Original Dark rums, grapefruit and lime juices, and honey syrup.
At the José Andrés property The Bazaar in New York City, cocktail innovator Miguel F. Lancha’s Anvil ($19) mixes equal parts Banks 5 Island and Appleton Estate Rare Blend rums with lime juice, simple syrup, and Peychaud’s bitters. “Different rums have distinct flavor profiles influenced by things like the type of molasses or sugarcane used, the fermentation process, and the aging method,” José Andrés Group’s Grajewski says. “The things I like most about working with rum are its versatility and diversity of styles for mixing drinks. It makes for a great medium.”
More To Explore
Though rum will always have a place in fruity, tiki-influenced cocktails, bartenders are looking to change things up with rum and make it a larger part of the cocktail conversation. “What we’re seeing lately is a reassessment of rum as a base ingredient or modifier; its nuances are being applied to build serious cocktails around the idiosyncrasies of different regional rum styles, in the way one would with regional Scotches or different gin botanical profiles,” Williams notes. “Because of its depth of nuance, there is also a depth of possibility when it comes to cocktail making.”
Matt Baczor, bar manager at Traveling Mercies in Aurora, Colorado, notes that he and his bar team use rum in more subtle ways than it’s historically known for. “This approach speaks to a growing audience of adventurous drinkers with a particular interest in rum,” he says, adding that for those who may be more hesitant to go for a rum-based cocktail, “We see it as our job to educate them about the versatility of rum and dare them to dip outside of their comfort zone.” His drink The Fool’s Progress ($17) is his own take on the Bananarac, a rum-based play on the Sazerac, featuring Rhum J.M Terroir Volcanique rum, Bhakta 1928 rye, Joseph Cartron Banane banana liqueur, Rhum J.M Sirop sugaracane syrup, Scrappy’s Cardamom bitters, Regans’ No. 6 Orange bitters, and a Leopold Bros. Absinthe Verte rinse. Meanwhile, his Long, But Distinguished ($16) is “an El Presidente turned into a Champagne cocktail,” comprising equal parts Probitas white blended rum and Dolin Blanc vermouth, plus Rhum J.M Shrubb d’Orange liqueur, Small Hand Foods grenadine, Supasawa, and JCB No. 21 Cremant de Bourgogne sparkling wine, and his For Those of You Who Wanna Take Off, Take Off ($16) is a fragrant milk punch, blending Rivers Royale Grenadian rum, house-made lemongrass and fenel seed syrup, water, and lime juice, all of which are milk-washed. “The cocktail boom has produced a surplus of adventurous drinkers who are excited to try drinks and spirits off the beaten path, so rum is a natural spirit for them to turn to,” Baczor adds.
Alexander Aportela, director of beverage for Miami-based Eileen Andrade Hospitality, believes the cocktail boom has brought renewed attention to rum. “Bartenders are experimenting with rum in innovative ways, contributing to its evolving presence in the cocktail scene,” he says. “Working with rum allows for a wide range of flavor profiles and styles, from light and crisp to rich and complex—its diversity makes cocktail creation exciting, whether crafting classic recipes or inventing new ones.” At the hospitality group’s restaurant Amelia’s 1931, Aportela’s Dr. Beet ($15) is a creation all his own, mixing Havana Club Añejo Blanco rum, Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot liqueur, and house-made coconut and beet cordial.
“I think the cocktail boom has done a lot to give rum some stepping stones, which has led it to where it is today,” notes Amy Racine, beverage director for The Times Square Edition Hotel in New York City. “Based on my interactions with guests, I can confirm that rum is turning into a more ‘serious’ spirit. I noticed that guests are more open to rum-based cocktails, which can be attributed to my colleagues and influential mixologists showing excitement around these cocktails and using their creativity to further the palate.” At The Terrace and Outdoor Gardens at The Times Square Edition, head bartender Eddie Morgado’s Melting Pot ($20) features Planteray Original Dark rum, Banhez Joven mezcal, Mommenpop blood orange liqueur, lime juice, Demerara syrup, and saline solution. “The Melting Pot is a play on a classic Daiquiri cocktail, but with a deeper, slightly caramelized flavor from the dark rum,” Racine says. “A touch of mezcal is added for a smoky element to create a Daiquiri with depth and more broad elements.”
At the Times Square Edition’s Lobby Bar, meanwhile, Morgado’s The Ninth Edition ($30) comprises equal parts Mount Gay Eclipse rum and Remy 1738 Cognac, plus Giffard Crème de Pamplemousse Rose pink grapefruit liqueur, Italicus Rosolio Di Bergamotto bergamot liqueur, rose water, and saline. “The Ninth Edition is made with an emphasis to embrace the lightness that is associated with rum,” Racine says. “Mount Gay Eclipse rum was chosen due to its light character with hints of floral chamomile flavor. With a touch of rose water, the cocktail leans into a fresh tone with bergamot to further amplify the bright flavors.”
The Floridian’s Stevens notes that rum has come a long way from being used exclusively in tiki cocktails. “Over the past few years rum has expanded into a multifaceted spirit with so many styles and used in so many types of cocktails,” he says. “Rum will always make a delicious tropical cocktail, but I love to see it used in more savory, vegetal applications or spirit-forward and bitter cocktails.” At Coltivare, Thompson’s Rhumming with Negroni ($16.50) falls into the latter category: It’s a rum-based Negroni blending equal parts Planteray 3 Stars rum and Campari aperitif, plus Dolin Blanc vermouth. “Rum’s ability to work in refreshing cocktails as well as more complex, spirit-forward ones makes it a dream ingredient for bartenders,” Thompson says. “Planteray is my favorite rum due to the breadth of styles they have—I particularly love the Barbados style. It’s rich and luscious, with caramel and spice characteristics further amplified by time spent in former Bourbon casks. We did a barrel pick with Planteray for this specific style and when it came time to make a cocktail with it, I wanted to show the versatility in a Paper Plane. Changing out the Bourbon for this rum was an excellent choice: it lifted the drink to another level. Less bitter, more herbal notes, while fruity and sour but still balanced. Our guests have loved it.” The drink, called First Class To Venice ($16.50), comprises equal parts Coltivare’s barrel pick of Planteray Barbados rum, Nonino amaro, Aperol aperitif, and lemon juice, plus Woodford Reserve Barreled Bourbon bitters.
Rum may not have the same buzz around it that other spirits do right now, but many bartenders agree that it’s certainly worthy of more attention in the cocktail world. “If I had my wish, I would like to think rum will have its turn in the spotlight similar to what whisk(e)y saw a decade ago and what Tequila is seeing now,” José Andrés Group’s Grajewski says. “As other spirits categories premiumize, consumers tend to look for similar enjoyment in other spirits that don’t come with the hefty price. Rum has this, plus the history to back it up.”