Wine’s Diversity At The Bar

Hotel bars see continued success by offering variety on by-the-glass lists.

In Charlottesville, Virginia, Marigold by Jean-Georges (bar pictured) offers 21 wines by the glass at the bar. The venue’s staff has noticed guests asking for lesser-known varietals, as well as orange and natural labels, signaling interest in more diverse wine offerings.
In Charlottesville, Virginia, Marigold by Jean-Georges (bar pictured) offers 21 wines by the glass at the bar. The venue’s staff has noticed guests asking for lesser-known varietals, as well as orange and natural labels, signaling interest in more diverse wine offerings.

In a space dominated by cocktails, wine continues to chug along in bars, making an impact for venues that offer a varied list of glass pours. This is especially true in hotel bars, where the clientele turns over regularly. Many hotel bars are seeing interest in lesser-known wine varietals and styles, as consumers seek out diverse labels and new wine experiences.

“We’ve noticed a shift in wine preferences at our bar,” says Nathan Goings, a bartender at Marigold by Jean-Georges at the Keswick Hall Resort in Charlottesville, Virginia. “Patrons are embracing more adventurous choices and leaning toward lesser-known varietals. Sancerre and Sauvignon Blanc are taking the spotlight, and there’s been a decline in requests for oaky Chardonnay. We’ve also observed a growing interest in orange and natural wines, reflecting a trend toward more diverse and unique selections.”

Marigold by Jean-Georges lists 21 wines by the glass at the bar ($13-$95), which complement a bottle list spanning 120 labels in the main restaurant. Goings says the bar often highlights local wines, and he adds that wine is a significant player at the bar, though he admits that spirits and cocktails often outsell wine. Moving forward, he notes that wine producers need to focus on accessibility to increase consumption in bars, pointing specifically to screw caps and alternative bottle closures that aid by-the-glass programs, as well as an increased emphasis on education by sending winemakers and brand reps out to interact with consumers at bar events.

At Hotel Jerome in Aspen, Colorado (Prospect bar pictured), guests often stick with the wine classics—Sancerre, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon—and are showing interest in organic labels.
At Hotel Jerome in Aspen, Colorado (Prospect bar pictured), guests often stick with the wine classics—Sancerre, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon—and are showing interest in organic labels.

Christel Stiver, the wine director at Hotel Jerome in Aspen, Colorado, also says wine sales lag behind cocktails, though she adds that wine sales have been steadily increasing every year, led by glass pours. Guests at Hotel Jerome, which is owned by the Auberge Resorts Collection, often stick with what Stiver describes as the wine classics—Sancerre, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon—and are showing interest in organic labels. But Stiver also says locally made Colorado wines have gained footing. The bar at Prospect in the Hotel Jerome lists upwards of 30 wines by the glass ($16-$55), including higher-end labels like Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon and Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé Champagne.

Another Auberge Resorts property, Bishop’s Lodge in Santa Fe, New Mexico, has a robust wine program at its bar in the SkyFire restaurant. SkyFire lists about 30 glass pours ($12-$25), ranging from Pazo das Bruxas Albariño to Ken Wright Pinot Noir to local label Vivác Rosé of Sangiovese. Wine director Missy Auge notes Albariño is a popular varietal. “People are interested in new grapes and labels, and often want guidance to find that hidden gem on the list,” Auge says. “They aren’t set on the same old selections they’ve always consumed. Our customers really appreciate the variety and seasonal changes on our wine menu.”

Auge adds that the natural and pétillant naturel wine trends are fading in her market, though she notes many consumers do still show interest in low intervention and sustainable wine labels. And while glass pours are popular year-round, Auge says full wine bottles sell well at the bar during the warmer months, when guests often visit in larger groups. “Our local guests are savvy and slightly older, and they know what they want,” Auge explains, adding that the older wine-drinking clientele often stick with what’s familiar. “Our traveling guests are from all over and they generally order high-end bottles and pricier by-the-glass options. Younger folks have been ordering more wine over the years, led by Millennials, and as they continue to age I foresee higher quality and pricier selections being ordered from this demographic.”