Rosé Readies For A Return To Growth

Despite last year’s volume downturn, future forecasts remain sunny.

Rosé wines, particularly those out of France, have maintained their popularity for the last two decades. And despite the category softening last year, the future is still looking very bright for rosé.
Rosé wines, particularly those out of France, have maintained their popularity for the last two decades. And despite the category softening last year, the future is still looking very bright for rosé.

French rosés, especially those from Provence, have maintained their popularity for the last two decades, driving growth for the category with year-over-year gains. This southeastern region of France continues to dominate the field with brands like Whispering Angel, Miraval, and Gérard Bertrand, among others, and new entries continue to enter the market. Three of the category’s top six brands are from France, while two are domestic brands, and one is Italian. But while rosés are still popular with American consumers, last year marked the first gloomy performance in memory as several of the category’s best-selling brands faced slight declines. Seventeen large-selling French rosé brands combined for a 3% decline to 2.4 million cases, leading many to wonder if 2023’s depletions were simply a small setback in rosé’s upward climb, or if the category has finally hit its peak and enthusiasm for rosé will continue to wane in the coming years. 

Despite consumption softening last year and Provençal rosé wine exports to the U.S. falling 8.5% to 1.74 million cases, French rosé still made up the lion’s share of the category in terms of depletions, maintaining its long-held place at the top of the rosé segment. Leading brand Whispering Angel, by now an icon in the rosé category, fell 11.2% to 507,000 cases in 2023, not including portfoliomate The Beach by Whispering Angel, which dropped by a further 2.5% last year to 158,000 cases. The Beach, a rebrand of the winery’s entry-level rosé previously known as The Palm, was introduced in 2022. The Beach ($18 a 750-ml.) is aimed at Millennial and Gen Z consumers while Whispering Angel ($22) has a cult following reaching consumers of all ages. 

Campari Group recently acquired the rights to import Miraval (pictured), a rosé brand originally founded by actors Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. The brand, previously imported by Vineyard Brands, fell by 1.9%, marking its first decline in years.
Campari Group recently acquired the rights to import Miraval (pictured), a rosé brand originally founded by actors Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. The brand, previously imported by Vineyard Brands, fell by 1.9%, marking its first decline in years.

Moët Hennessy-backed Chateau d’Esclans, which makes Whispering Angel alongside several other French rosé brands across multiple price tiers, says the current downturn is simply a blip, noting that Provence, much like Champagne, has firmly cemented itself as a reputable region for viticulture, further legitimizing the category. “Enthusiasm for rosé, and this is even more so worldwide, does continue to grow. We’re seeing some recent numbers out of Provence showing that,” says Paul Chevalier, vice president of Château d’Esclans at Moët Hennessy USA. “As of spring, we are starting to see sort of a bounce-back in rosé consumption in the U.S. as well as around the world.”

Whispering Angel wasn’t the only category player to fall in 2023. Gérard Bertrand and Miraval, the No.-3 and No.-4 leading French rosé brands, respectively, both experienced declines last year. Miraval ($25 a 750-ml.), founded by actors Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie along with the Perrin family in 2012, decreased 1.9% to 161,000 cases last year, its first year in the hands of Campari. In September of 2023, Campari Group acquired the exclusive rights to import Miraval in the U.S. In a statement at the time of the deal, executives from Campari group said, “We consider this distribution agreement a key opportunity to enter the very attractive rosé category in two strategic markets. Rosé is consumed in the aperitif moment—an occasion in which Campari Group is a leader. In addition, the Muse de Miraval and Fleur de Miraval labels offer an ideal complement to our Rare portfolio division with its focus on the high-end, luxury offerings.”

Gérard Bertrand offers by far the largest French rosé from outside of Provence. The brand’s flagship rosé ($26 a 750-ml.) hails from a biodynamic and organic winery in Languedoc and climbed to 390,000 cases in 2022. However, the brand fell 9.8% to 352,000 cases in 2023 after years of consistent growth. Thankfully, the company was buoyed last year by Gérard Bertrand portfoliomate Hampton Water ($17), a lifestyle brand that is backed by singer Jon Bon Jovi and his son, Jesse Bongiovi. Hampton Water grew 27.7%% to 80,000 cases in 2023 and Hampton Water CEO Michael Misiorski says the goal for 2024 is to hit the 100,000-case mark in the U.S., noting that there will be a new addition coming later this year that will help drive the brand toward that goal. Betrand’s rosé lineup spans multiple price tiers, with Clos de Temple ($165) at the luxury end and Cote de Roses ($12) at the premium end.

While many rosé brands faltered last year, some offerings like La Vieille Ferme (vineyard pictured) stayed the course.
While many rosé brands faltered last year, some offerings like La Vieille Ferme (vineyard pictured) stayed the course.

Growth Remains

Though several of the leading French rosé brands had downturns in 2023, there were some success stories out of France last year. La Vieille Ferme, the No.-2 rosé brand nationally with both still and sparkling rosé wines ($8-$16 a 750-ml.) in its stable, grew 8.2% to 448,000 cases in 2023, up from 414,000 in 2022. The brand has experienced year-over-year gains since 2018 and recently bolstered its portfolio with the introduction of La Vieille Ferme cans this spring in response to the demand for single-serve wine options. Patrick Bennett, CEO and president of Vineyard Brands, importer of La Vieille Ferme, says the launch, “is a great introduction to the brand for younger consumers and brings convenience and accessibility.” 

As for the category as a whole, Bennett says some softening is bound to occur, but rosé will still be rock solid. “In general, the rosé market remains strong, but it obviously isn’t experiencing the explosive growth it has seen in the past,” notes Bennett. “After years of insane growth and far too many inferior rosé brands coming on stream, this is a healthy trend within the category.” 

Bill Terlato, president and CEO of Terlato Wines, agrees that rosé is experiencing the ebb and flow that any thriving category will naturally come to face. “It had a huge run up and nothing grows in a straight line, so it’s definitely down right now,” he says. “There is kind of a natural consolidation that ends up taking place.” Terlato Wines’ Provençal rosé label Les Sarrins Côtes de Provence Rosé, which launched in the U.S. in 2021, was up 36% last year, according to the company. Also new to the U.S. market is Commanderie de Peyrassol, a French brand out of the small Provençal village Flassans-sur-Issole. The winery joined forces with Wilson Daniels in December of 2020 and has seen year over year gains ever since. Commanderie de Peyrassol depleted 45,722 cases in 2023, up 7.9% to 42,384 in 2022. At Zachys Wine & Liquor in Port Chester, New York, Peyrassol Cuvée des Commandeurs Rosé ($23 a 750-ml.) has been a best-seller for the last three years. “Our customers love exploring different rosé styles,” says Sara Bishop, wine buyer at Zachys. “Consistently among our top sellers for the past three years, that brand has proven its enduring appeal.”

While most domestic rosés fail to garner the attention that imports do, some have made a name for themselves in the U.S. Chateau Ste. Michelle (pictured), a Washington-based brand that is beloved in the states, was one of a handful of domestic rosés to grow in 2023.
While most domestic rosés fail to garner the attention that imports do, some have made a name for themselves in the U.S. Chateau Ste. Michelle (pictured), a Washington-based brand that is beloved in the states, was one of a handful of domestic rosés to grow in 2023.

Rosés Beyond France

While France continued to take most of the share in 2023, domestic brands and imports from other countries struggled to keep up in an overcrowded segment. One of the most notable brands to struggle last year was Riboli’s Stella Rosa, the No.-1 imported brand outside of France. The Italian brand had a hard year in 2023, with its rosé offering declining 10% to 315,000 cases despite maintaining its No.-4 spot in the overall category. But while the majority of imports outside of France fell last year, there were several brands that saw gains, including Kim Crawford Rosé from New Zealand, which was up 11.8%, as well as Italian rosés Risata and 90+ Cellars Prosécco Rosé, up 15.1% and 19.5%, respectively. 

While rosé from France dominates, retailers note that consumers who drink rosé are also curious about imports from other countries. At Hazel’s Beverage world in Boulder, Colorado, wine department manager Joe Todesco says Italian rosés do well. “We do enjoy a strong following for Italian Rosé,” says Todesco. “Being located in Boulder, Scarpetta Frico Rosé is in our top ten. Also, producers like La Spinetta and Ioppa do very well, as the importer is licensed here.” Similarly, Jeff Knight, general manager and wine buyer at Randall’s Wines & Spirits in St. Louis, says his store offers a wide variety of imported rosé and only a fraction is French. “We have a fairly eclectic selection of rosé. A fair share of Provence wines, to be sure, but we also carry plenty of rosé from outside that region,” says Knight. “We have rosé from Chinon, Beaujolais, and Loire, among others. In addition, we have a nice selection from Italy, the United States, and South Africa, along with wines from Argentina, Chile, Austria, and Portugal.”

Much like rosés imported from outside of France, many domestic offerings have had difficulty finding footing in the 2023 market. Bota Box, the No. 1 domestic rosé, declined by 3.5% to 290,000 cases, dipping below the 300,000-case mark for the first time since 2018. Despite maintaining its place as the best-selling domestic rosé, the offering has been steadily plateauing for the past several years. However, there were some bright spots in domestic rosé, including Josh Cellars, which grew 2% to 218,000 cases, and Chateau Ste. Michelle, which grew 3% to 155,000 cases in 2023. At Zachys, Bishop says customers are reaching for domestic offerings like Wölffer Summer in a Bottle Rosé. “It’s a fantastic choice,” she says. “Since we’re fortunate to be near the Long Island winemaking regions, we always love encouraging customers to support these fantastic local New York producers.”

Meanwhile, in St. Louis, Knight says Randall’s shoppers are looking for natural rosés out of the Northwestern United States. “Wines from California, Washington, and Oregon do very well here. ‘Natural’ wineries, such as Scribe, Breaking Bread, and Teutonic have exploded in popularity as well,” he says. “Customers are looking for less manipulated wines, and natural rosé really shows off the style’s fresh acidity and bright fruit flavors well.” Washington-based brand “And Why Am I Mr. Pink,” from Mark Ryan’s Underground Wine Project is another domestic favorite of Randall’s customers, which Knight says has been “a nice surprise since I brought that in mainly for its fun label. It’s taken off with our customers here. It doesn’t hurt that it’s also a great example of what rosé does best: juicy, fruity, zippy, and refreshing. Perfect for warmer days.” Pricing for the top-selling rosés, both imported and domestic, typically falls between $10-$25 a 750-ml. at Randall’s. “For us, the best sellers tend to be in the $12-$18 range,” Knight adds. “You don’t have to pay a lot to get a lot when it comes to rosé.”

Looking ahead, producers and retailers are looking forward to a comeback for the category as the market becomes less inundated with new entries and the brands with staying power come out on top. French rosés in particular are hopeful for continued success in this year’s market. “In the last 20 years, regions from all over the world have emulated the Southern France style of light, dry, fresh rosé,” says Bennett at Vineyard Brands. “While international rosé is here to stay, and that is a good thing, I believe French rosé has further consolidated its position as the category leader.”