In the ever-expanding universe of Martini culture, not all brine is created equally. For Martini fans who like their drink dirty but also enjoy a complex cocktail, anchovy is an interesting alternative to standard olive brine. By itself, anchovy is often considered a polarizing ingredient—people either love it or hate it, or they’re simply afraid to try it. But behind the bar, anchovy is getting attention for what it can add to a Martini, specifically an umami salinity and a richer mouthfeel than more traditional olive brines.
“The simple salinity adds sharpness to the drink, and the umami of the fish creates layers of complexity to vodka Martinis and can enhance the already complex flavors of gin Martinis,” says Thomas Kleiner, a managing partner at Club Lucky in Chicago. The venue’s signature Martini, the Always Lucky ($17), is made with Ketel One vodka and guests can choose their garnish, from house-made Gibson onions to olives stuffed with gorgonzola, pimento, or white anchovy. The anchovy olives have a dedicated following with true Martini enthusiasts.
“We include three anchovy-stuffed olives per garnish and the drink has a richer mouthfeel after a couple simple swirls of the garnish,” Kleiner says. “For traditionalists, a classic anchovy olive is simple and perfect in Martinis. The people who order it get it, and some people even love the slight saltiness of the fish with sweeter drinks like Manhattans and Boulevardiers, while others like it with the bitterness of Negronis or Campari on the rocks.”
While anchovy is unlikely to become a staple behind the bar, it fills a niche that’s not easily replicated. Krissy Harris, the owner and beverage director of cocktail bar Shy Shy in New York City, says the fact that anchovy isn’t widely embraced is one of its best attributes. “There’s an art to creating cocktails that aren’t for the masses but could possibly change someone’s opinion,” she says. “Like most polarizing ingredients, you’ve got haters and devoted fans. These days, everyone loves a Caesar salad, so why not remind them that they’ve been eating anchovies all along and take a chance on the Martini version. We list anchovy as an ingredient on the cocktail menu to really capture the folks willing to try fish in a Martini. Most people who order it love it.”
Shy Shy’s Caesar Martini ($19) is made with Veso Anchovy vermouth plus olive oil-washed Ketel One vodka, Dolin Dry vermouth, and salt and pepper, garnished with a lemon peel and served alongside a mini Caesar salad comprising a leaf of romaine topped with a boquerones anchovy and shaved parmesan to create an interactive experience. “With all the Dirty Martini rage, you’d be surprised how many people dislike olive brine but love salt,” Harris says. “The Veso Anchovy vermouth adds a briny salty umami flavor that’s surprisingly not fishy, while also adding a soft round mouthfeel. It has a wonderful savory saltiness that adds depth and complexity to the cocktail.”
David Padilla, the bar manager of Rose Café & Restaurant in Sunny Isles Beach, Florida, believes that anchovy fits naturally into the broader movement toward savory, culinary-driven cocktails. He says anchovy creates a memorable sensory experience at the bar, and while his venue doesn’t currently offer an anchovy-enhanced drink he’s already designed one for a future menu. Padilla describes it as a 50/50 Martini that would be made with both gin and vodka that are fat-washed with olive oil and finished with Sherry, with a few drops of anchovy brine mixed in.
“The anchovy itself would never go in the glass, it would be served on butter-toasted bread beside the Martini, creating a dialogue between the bite and the sip,” he says. “Olive brine contributes salinity and acidity, while anchovy brine adds a richer umami profile to create texture, depth, and a longer gastronomic finish. Used correctly, anchovy behaves like a seasoning—it elevates every ingredient without becoming the dominant flavor.”