Sommelier Spotlight: Singing Wines’ Praises

Sommelier Jessica Certo leads an all-female wine team at Del Frisco’s in New York City.

Jessica Certo, head sommelier at Del Frisco’s in New York City, oversees the restaurant’s wine program and encourages guests to try new offerings. The menu emphasizes iconic Napa Valley brands like Silver Oak, as well as smaller labels.
Jessica Certo, head sommelier at Del Frisco’s in New York City, oversees the restaurant’s wine program and encourages guests to try new offerings. The menu emphasizes iconic Napa Valley brands like Silver Oak, as well as smaller labels.

Jessica Certo may have a master’s degree in opera performance, but she’s well on her way to becoming a master sommelier. The classically trained singer started as a server at the New York City location of Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House in Rockefeller Center in 2008 and, after a course on viticulture and vinification sparked her passion for wine, she quickly moved up to the position of sommelier in 2010. Now the head sommelier of Del Frisco’s New York, Certo leads a team of three wine specialists—who all just happen to be women. “It’s special to the restaurant,” Certo says. “Steak houses are boys’ clubs. More women are getting into the industry, but there aren’t a lot of women in comparison to men, so I think it sets us apart that we have an all-female wine team.” Wine is a major component of the beverage program at Southlake, Texas-based Del Frisco’s, which has 11 locations in eight states and in Washington, D.C. The menu lists up to 2,000 selections, and the company works with many partners on a mandate basis, but there’s no set number. “We can choose what we have on the wine list,” Certo says. “We have a lot a freedom.” By the glass, prices range from $12 for the Pighin Pinot Grigio from Friuli, Italy, or the Can Blau from Montsant, Spain, to $45 for the 2012 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. Bottles start at $35 and go up to $9,995 for the 1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, but the sweet spot falls between $100 and $150. “We have a great emphasis on California offerings,” Certo says. “We’re always seeking out the icon wines, especially California Cabernet like Silver Oak, Insignia and Screaming Eagle. But as a team we really love the smaller guys as well. We have a lot of regular guests who come back and want to try something new, so we keep it fresh and fun.” Spain and Argentina have been trending well at Del Frisco’s, along with Pinot Noir and rosé during the warmer months. “People still drink quite a bit of full-bodied red, and we never have a problem selling Bordeaux, Super-Tuscans or California Cabernet, but we do have people who are willing to break outside the box with us,” Certo says. She cites the Sommelier Selection list, which highlights easy and accessible wines. “It’s a one-stop page of good suggestions,” Certo explains. “Our wine menu is 42 pages, so it’s intimidating if you don’t know a lot about wine.” The list includes the 2011 Del Frisco’s Cabernet Sauvignon ($70 a 750-ml. bottle), which is a proprietary blend made exclusively for the restaurant by Napa Valley winemaker Robert Foley. Events are another way to introduce guests to new wines. Del Frisco’s partners with well-known wineries like PlumpJack or smaller producers, such as Paradigm, for wine dinners that take place quarterly. And every year in October, the New York location hosts the Magnum Bash, which invites wine aficionados to bring large bottles from their own cellars to enjoy with dinner at the restaurant for no corkage fee. “It’s a really fun night,” Certo says. “By the end of the evening, everybody is walking around the room and tasting people’s bottles.” At press time, the Third Annual Magnum Bash had already sold out. In addition to educating consumers, Certo offers wine classes for the entire staff every Thursday. Topics range from regions to varietals to sales or wine service. “They get to taste what we’re talking about, and we try to pair the wine with a dish that we offer at the restaurant so their ability to pair food and wine starts to grow,” says Certo, who sometimes teaches courses at the American Sommelier Association and is currently pursuing her Master Sommelier Certificate. In her role as head sommelier, Certo has been able to use some of the skills she learned while studying music. “I had to read and write in French, German and Italian, which has helped me in navigating wines from those countries,” she says. “And you’re creating an experience for a guest from start to finish. Whether it’s a wine pairing or just finding a wine the guest has never tried before, it’s all part of the creative experience.”